How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Montana Zemo Hardneck Garlic

Garlic is one of my favorite crops to grow. I look forward to seeing pre-order emails and selecting varieties to try. Here in zone 5b, we successfully produce large quantities of hardneck garlic, enjoying young, green garlic in the spring, scapes in early summer, and fresh garlic a few months later. 

Each year in late summer, our seed garlic’s arrival signals the season’s closing. We start to clean out summer crops and amend garden beds, making way for garlic, which grows seemingly magically underneath the thick layer of mulch, compost, and usually around here, snow! 

If you’re a cold region grower like me and are looking for a new variety of garlic to grow, look no further than ‘Montana Zemo,’ bred for its large, deliciously spicy bulbs. 

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‘Montana Zemo’ Hardneck Garlic Overview 

Botanical Name Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon ‘Montana Zemo’  Native Area Central Asia  Pests Onion thrips, garlic bloat nematode, armyworms, bulb mites  Plant Type porcelain, hardneck garlic  Storage Capabilities Up to 6 months	Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade Diseases White rot, downy mildew, fusarium basal rot, botrytis neck rot, rust Subfamily Alleoideae (formerly Alliaceae)  Soil Type Fertile, well-draining, high in organic matter	Maintenance Low to moderate  Watering Requirements Moderate Hardiness Zones USDA 4 to 9

What Is ‘Montana Zemo’ Hardneck Garlic?

‘Montana Zemo’ is an organic hardneck garlic bred to produce large, porcelain-white bulbs. It is highly versatile in the kitchen. Its flavor is mildly spicy, robust, and complex, and it is equally enjoyed raw and cooked.  

Each bulb contains an average of four to seven cloves, about 25 to 30 cloves per pound. You can store cured bulbs for up to six months in ideal conditions. 

This extremely hardy variety is perfect for cold-region growers in USDA zones 4 to 9. It’s a great alternative to ‘Music’ if it’s unavailable. 

Characteristics

Robust and complex, ‘Montana Zemo’ produces large, porcelain-white bulbs wrapped in pink paper. With little heat, it’s delicious when raw, with no bitter aftertaste. Some describe the cooked flavor as sweet and nutty.

Panelists at America’s Test Kitchen chose ‘Montana Zemo’ as a top favorite for its teardrop-shaped bulb, perfectly balanced spice, and high allicin content. The cloves are easy to peel, making this variety an excellent choice for chefs.   

Native Area

‘Montana Zemo’ was developed from ‘Zemo,’ which originated in the village of Zemo Surebi in the Republic of Georgia. Breeders at the base of the Mission Mountains in Northwestern Montana developed ‘Montana Zemo’ specifically for cold region growers. 

Planting 

Plant in September, October, or very early November. The exact timeframe will depend on your region and the forecasted weather. It’s essential to get the cloves planted before the first hard frost so they can set roots. But be sure not to jump the gun and get them in too early, or they could sprout, leaving them vulnerable to frost damage or death. 

Growers in warmer regions can safely wait until later in the fall. Garlic requires a vernalization period of around eight weeks to form a bulb properly. Growers may be resting indoors, but throughout the winter, but this crop grows vegetatively and may sprout above ground a bit before you uncover it in the spring. That’s why mulching is so vital. 

Preparing Your Seeds (Cloves)

Ordering seed garlic in the fall is critical, as it often sells out. Look for pre-order sales from your seed supplier of choice to ensure you get the type and varieties you want. 

Properly cured cloves will have intact, thick papers and shouldn’t need sterilization before planting. However, if you’d like to be safe and avoid transferring pests, mold, or disease pathogens into your soil, sterilize the cloves with 70%+ isopropyl alcohol, 3%+ hydrogen peroxide, bleach water, or baking soda. 

After sterilization, you can soak the cloves overnight in fish emulsion or your garlic fertilizer of choice. Now, your cloves are ready for planting. 

Transplanting

Sow winter-hardy ‘Montana Zemo’ cloves with the pointed side up four to six weeks before the first frost to allow the roots to form correctly in the soil, facing the right direction.

Timing is crucial. Too early, the garlic could prematurely sprout above the surface, becoming vulnerable to the frost. Too late, the cloves may not have enough time to develop strong roots that will allow them to survive winter. Mild winter growers may sow cloves in January for a harvest seven to nine months later. You may need to vernalize them in the refrigerator. 

Create a trench with a hoe, or use a gridding tool to mark out your bed. Place one clove two to three inches deep every six to eight inches. Cover the trench or cloves with soil. Mulch according to your region’s first frost date. Rows should be 6 to 18 inches apart to give bulbs enough space to grow large. When spaced out properly, no thinning is necessary. 

How to Grow

‘Montana Zemo’ will perform like most other hardneck garlic varieties, maturing in 250 to 270 days when planted in the fall. This cultivar will produce delicious, large bulbs with proper treatment before planting and hard frosts. 

Sunlight 

This allium-family crop requires full sun to partial shade for the best results. Plant it in a flat, sunny spot in the garden for the highest yields and largest bulbs. Ensure it receives at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. 

Water 

Well-draining, composted soil is crucial to garlic staying fresh in the ground without rotting. Torrential rains and soggy soil can cause rotting and disappointed gardeners. Water consistently in the fall to ensure the cloves have enough moisture to set roots. They need about an inch weekly. Once you mulch and put them to bed for the winter, fall rain and winter snow should supply them with what they need. 

They should only need supplemental watering if there are drought conditions. Do not water when rains are plentiful. 

Soil 

Preparing beds for garlic is critical to its success, but spending the time upfront will make all the difference. This crop is in the ground for most of the year and appreciates organic matter. Add a good amount of compost and allow it to work into the soil for a few weeks before planting.

To prepare the soil for planting, base​​ your amendments on soil test results. If your gardens have poor soil fertility or heavy clay, consider growing garlic in raised beds. 

Mulch

Mulching pathways and over the top of buried cloves using organic straw or seedless mulch hay will protect the new root system through the cold of winter, which is especially important in areas where frost occurs. You can place up to six inches over the top of the beds. Heavy mulch may create too much warmth if a sudden temperature spike occurs in the fall, so be prepared to remove and reapply if necessary. 

Climate and Temperature Requirements

This crop has been grown worldwide for thousands of years. Selecting a variety that is suitable for your region is crucial for success. ‘Montana Zemo’ garlic will grow successfully in USDA zones 4 to 9, even when springs are particularly dry. It will begin to sprout when temperatures are consistently between 40 and 50°F (4 and 10°C). 

Once your bulbs have been harvested and cured, store them in a dark, dry place with low relative humidity. For proper, long-term storage, temperatures should be between 35 and 55°F (2 and 13°C). A root cellar or dry, climate-controlled basement will work well. Anything much warmer, and you’ll risk them sprouting. 

Fertilizing 

When planting, work a 5-10-10 general fertilizer into the top layer of soil to encourage the plant to focus on the bulb rather than above-ground growth, which you want it to save for the spring. When temperatures warm in the spring, temporarily remove the mulch and side dress with a balanced organic fertilizer.

Fertilize using a general feed or fish emulsion before the scapes appear, then pull back nitrogen once summer is in full swing and lots of above-ground growth is happening. Ensure timely snapping of the scapes to send energy to form a large, beautiful bulb. Simply snip or snap them off when they appear and begin to curl.

Maintenance

As mentioned, preparing your garlic plot before sowing cloves is the most crucial step, as this crop is a heavy feeder. After you properly sow, water, fertilize, and mulch, there isn’t much maintenance until spring, when you should uncover your sprouting bulbs and check their progress. 

No pruning is necessary. Keeping weed pressure down is essential, as garlic won’t compete well and needs all the nutrients it can get. Since ‘Montana Zemo’ is a hardneck garlic, it will produce scapes around June. Pay close attention to when they start to form and snap them when they each transition into a goose-neck shape. Removing the scape will signal the plant to focus on the bulb. 

Propagation 

Each clove creates an exact clone of the mother plant. So, when you successfully grow full bulbs, you have grown your garlic seeds! That’s cool. 

Like your other seeds, storage is essential to maintaining long-term health and vitality. Store them in a dark, dry place with low relative humidity. Moisture invites mold, which leads to poor-quality cloves. 

Harvesting and Storage

Generally, once about six leaves down the plant are browned and dying back, the bulbs may be ready for harvest. Some growers intentionally leave a few scapes on the plant to use as an indicator for harvest. Once they stick straight up towards the sky, the bulbs are ready! 

Hang to dry by bunching eight to ten plants with the attached stems, or lay them on a drying rack in a single layer. Provide good air circulation out of direct sunlight and low relative humidity. They should cure in about four weeks, although it may take longer in humid conditions. 

Curing is complete when no moisture remains in the stem and it’s hard to the touch. Cut the stems off and discard them. Store in baskets in a cool, dark place for the long term. 

Common Problems

Garlic is easy to grow and maintain, but a few cultural and IPM practices will help you develop the most healthy garlic possible. 

Pests 

Onion thrips, garlic bloat nematode, armyworms, and bulb mites are possible mites you might encounter. 

Onion thrips (Thrips tabaci) cause white striping, browning, and blotches on leaves, which may eventually die. These pests can carry diseases, including the Iris yellow spot virus, tomato spotted wilt virus, and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Scout for thrips for July, August, and September. Control by removing debris from all fields that may harbor eggs and larvae. Spinosad and neem oil may reduce thrip populations. 

Reputable seed companies should be testing for garlic bloat nematodes and may state they are “certified nematode-free.” Garlic bloat nematodes (Ditylenchus dipsaci) (GBN) bloat, soften, and distort bulbs as they grow, and the disease can travel to your garden via skins, roots, or soil of infected seed. If you suspect GBN, try incorporating proven biofumigant cover crops. Studies show promising effects of working this debris into infected fields. Prevent this issue by purchasing quality seed from reputable sources.

Armyworms may cause cosmetic damage to leaves but can quickly defoliate them if populations are large enough. Hand pick them first. Then try to control them with beneficial nematodes, predatory wasps, or neem oil treatments. Spray early or late at night when they are most active. 

Bulb mites may stunt bulb growth and cause damage during storage. You may have bulb mites if you notice varying or funky-shaped bulbs, yellowing, or twisted leaves. Remove infected plants immediately, and always purchase seed from reputable sources to avoid this issue. 

Diseases

Growing your own is a sure way to ensure that your seed garlic doesn’t have disease. Sterilization will help ease your mind if you purchase your seed from an online supplier. Here are a few diseases to look out for: 

Overwatering 

Soggy, poor-draining soil and too much rainfall can cause garlic cloves to rot in the ground. If your region is receiving ample rainfall, irrigation may not be necessary. Monitor growth weekly and scout for any signs of disease or rotting. Remove mulch during these times to allow the soil to dry out in between rainfall if you’re experiencing more than usual.